Making perfect scents: these are the finest fragrances for summer
Flaming weather calls for a vibrant selection of sprays to cut through the heat. Here’s what to pump on to the pulse points this season…
Words: Josh Lee
Creative Direction: Freya Anderson
Photography: Benjamin Swanson
Have you ever spent a weekend or two in the Mediterranean? It is, to a great extent, a peachy place, a cluster of concealed coves and blue-ribbon beaches that seem to have been whisked straight from a Slim Aarons snapshot, stretching from the Strait of Gibraltar to the Gulf of İskenderun, and forever the frequent flyer’s Platonic ideal of a getaway. The water is as blue and as deep as a Nick Cave chorus, the climate leaves your skin humming with heat, the catch of the day is exactly as you imagine it to be when you watch reruns of Anthony Bourdain island-hopping in that pocket of the world – clean, bright, perfect – and the scent of local citrus fruits, perhaps the area’s finest export, can lure a man into a reverie.
In summertime, when one’s daydreams turn to the sweeter things in life, the temptation of purchasing a Med-inspired spritz, we find, is often too hard to resist: the sunny slaps of bergamot, the candied perfume of mandarin, the splashy floral-citrus tangs of neroli, or maybe the herbaceous wafts of cucumber and coriander. When looking for those spirited notes that evoke an escape to sea and sand, here are some of our favourites to try.
Acqua di Parma, Colonia
We’ve forever compared Acqua di Parma to a well-tailored navy suit (ever-dependable, fuss-free and timeless), and among its bevy of fragrances, our favourites include the sweet hits of Fico di Amalfi and the rich Colonia Essenza, which makes for a fine black-tie spray. However, we feel that the brand’s Colonia, made over a century ago, is a level above, with its easygoing fusion of citrus (lemon, Calabrian bergamot, orange) and traces of floral notes (rose, lavender). Its well-balanced profile makes it not only suitable for summertime, but it can also be utilised for everyday wear throughout the year.
Wear with: something as equally timeless – perhaps a lightweight blue linen shirt and some flat-front chinos.
Tom Ford, Neroli Portofino
Perhaps the greatest summer perfume of all time, Neroli Portofino is to grooming what Brooks Brothers was to preppy style: unrivalled and unmatched. Leaning towards the crisper end of the scale, it makes for a vibrant, addictive scent that’s rich in the sweet flavours of Tunisian neroli, Italian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, and winter yellow mandarin. Its fresh splash brings to mind the sharp, reviving feel of standing on a breezy coastline, and the turquoise vessel in which it arrives only enhances the blue-waters feel.
Wear with: simple, pared-down items (Orlebar Brown swim trunks, perhaps) so as to let the notes shine on their own.
Creed, Erolfa
Heritage maker Creed is feted for its big, vivid smacks that long linger on the skin like a slow-developing tan, and, though summer is a season better known for lighter smells, the brand sticks to its heavy-hitting ethos with Erolfa, a statement-making creation. Intended to evoke a sailing trip through the Med, this specific formula expresses the feel of salty air and sea through a herbaceous, spice-led smack of coriander, lavender, cucumber and jasmine, all of which is given a sophisticated slant with musk, sandalwood and cedarwood. This is best suited for those seeking a bouquet that contrasts heavily with the season’s gentler whispers of citrus and flora.
Wear with: if using when on your own nautical adventures, try a JFK-inspired combo of a grey jumper with cream trousers and a pair of wayfarers.
Hermès, Eau de néroli doré
Vibrant in colour, sleek in design, and possessing the ability to uplift its wearer, this summer spritz is everything you’d expect from the celebrated French house. Another option that bends towards a spicier make-up, it’s defined by a fusion of neroli, saffron and petitgrain bigarade (an essential oil extracted from the leaves of bitter-orange trees grown in Egypt) – and we’re advocates of its svelte lantern bottle that slips rather elegantly into a washbag.
Wear with: to add further texture to your look, try a knitted polo and some seersucker trousers – and a lightweight tote to cart around your daily essentials (including the above)
Floris, Bergamotto di Positano
Like many products of its kinds, this fragrance takes its cues from the natural pleasures of Italy – this particular offering, from Floris, is centred around bergamot, one of the peninsula’s most famed fruits, and is reinforced by mandarin and “balmy marine notes.” The little hit of vanilla smooths out any sharpness, meanwhile ambrette (a medicinal plant) and ginger are intended to evoke the warmth of an evening by the Med.
Wear with: a Luca Faloni T-Shirt and a knitted blazer by Velasca are the building blocks for any la dolce vita aesthetic
Byredo, Palermo
Offbeat producer Byredo is renowned for its envelope-pushing, genderless aromas that run the gamut from those that smell like fresh laundry (Blanche) to confectionary (Bal D’Afrique) and nights in the forest (Gypsy Water). Palermo is a more prosaic offering, influenced by Sicilian bergamot – the result is a sweet fragrance, with subtle tartness, bitter licks of orange, and softer touches of rose absolute and musk.
Wear with: to play into the theme of contrasts, try a heavily patterned camp-collar shirt and some stripped-back white sneakers.
This feature was taken from Gentleman’s Journal’s Summer 2023 issue. Read more about it here…
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