Words: Jonathan Wells
Go on, give us a green — there are enough shades to choose from. Mint. Bottle. Emerald. The list goes on. Pea. Sage. Shamrock. And on. Lime. Pine. Olive.
But one thing groups these greens. From fern to forest, the watch industry has so far spent this year springing green-dialled designs on the timepiece-loving public. There have been classics reimagined in the colour, new designs decked out in muted greens and bright, bold celebrations of new collaborations and movements.
But why green? Some luxury enthusiasts presume it’s the colour’s association with wealth. Others believe it to be a green-fingered nod to the fast-growing environmental movement. But we’re not sure the trend has any such grand green meanings. Instead, as the watches below prove, we think it could simply be because they look this good…
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Platinum
What is it? The Swiss watchmaker’s new novelty may be ‘Jumbo’ by name, but it’s show-stoppingly slight by nature, measuring just over 8mm in thickness. And that’s no mean feat, given its sophisticated self-winding movement.
Why is it green? According to the brand, the “vibrant green sunburst Tapisserie dial” was chosen to provide a “powerful contrast” next to that sleek 950 platinum case. We particularly like the smokiness of the shade.
How does it stand out? Other than its extreme slimness and that sunray pattern dial, we’d have to say the white gold applied hour-markers. Like the contrast with the case, they add a nice ‘pop’ to this wafer-thin watch.
Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 Bentley Limited Edition
What is it? A tightly-ticking homage to a long-lasting partnership; specifically the bond between Breitling and Bentley. And what a celebration; fitted with the watchmaker’s inimitable B21 self-winding tourbillon movement.
Why is it green? Need you really ask? British Racing Green is a colour that dates back to 1903, and was used on the Bentleys that dominated the 24 hours of Le Mans endurance races in the 1920s. What other colour would they choose?
How does it stand out? This is a limited, limited edition — with only 25 of these high-octane, gold-and-green watches ever to be built. We’ll also give an honorary mention to those handsome, vintage-inspired hands.
Cartier Tank Must
What is it? A quartz-powered, monochromatic reinvention of the French brand’s affordably priced ‘Must de Cartier’ watches from the 1980s. This new take is a similarly chic option — complete with reasonable price tag.
Why is it green? We’re not really sure. The original ‘Must’ models came in blue, red and black. While the blue and red options have been revived, green has been introduced in place of black — perhaps a nod to the current colourful trend.
How does it stand out? Using severe, stripped-back minimalism. We particularly like the matching strap; a green-on-green one-two punch of non-contrast colour. Also, no ‘double-C’ Cartier logo or ‘Must’ name on the dial.
Grand Seiko SBGJ251
What is it? A season on the wrist. In Japan, each of the four seasons is divided into six phases, or ‘Sekki’. This latest Grand Seiko celebrates ‘Shunbun’ — the blooming, blossoming arrival of the spring equinox.
Why is it green? For that very reason. Taking inspiration from the natural landscapes around Grand Seiko’s factory, the brand says that the “green dial and rose gold tone accents perfectly capture the arrival of spring”.
How does it stand out? Where the Cartier above was simple and pared-back, the dial design of this watch, from the brand’s Elegance Collection, is bursting with decorative, decal-heavy life. Think hour, minute and 24-hour-clock indicators, four hands and a date window.
IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph 41
What is it? A mainstay of IWC’s Pilot’s Watch collection. The chronograph is a key tool for airmen, and never has it looked as precise, ergonomic and timely as this new green model from the Swiss manufacture.
Why is it green? The previous iteration of this watch came in a bold sky blue — the perfect choice for a pilot’s watch. So why green? Likely, while up in the horological clouds, IWC spotted the green trend on the horizon and charted its creative course accordingly.
How does it stand out? Thanks to that distinctive instrument look. The green dial is not only doused in highly legible luminescence, but the arrows and subdials ensure the 41 looks like the practical, capable tool watch it is.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds
Reverso Tribute Small Seconds
What is it? An iconic timepiece moving with the times. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso is one of the world’s most recognisable watches, and this model has both the rectangular movement and reversible case that makes the design great.
Why is it green? Because the earliest Reverso models, dating back to 1931, were green. The brand also says the colour was inspired by the deep green pine forests of the Vallée de Joux, where it is headquartered.
How does it stand out? Once more, the matching strap offers an eye-catching burst of bold green-on-green — but the rich tone of that sunray-brushed lacquer dial brings out the watch’s Art Deco flavour more effectively than perhaps any other shade.
Patek Philippe 5711/1A-014
What is it? The storied 5711/1A model model, with its sweep seconds, self-winding mechanical movement and instantly recognisable ridged dial — albeit this time in a different colour
Why is it green? Patek says that the “brand-new olive-green shade” — a colour that is new to the Nautilus collection — “should delight lovers of this cult watch”. We’d agree with every sunburst-burnished, horizontally-embossed word.
How does it stand out? Using subtlety. But not the simple, stark subtlety of Cartier’s ‘Must’ above. Instead, Patek Philippe have been characteristically cool about the green watch trend; unveiling the new colour with neither pomp nor pageantry.
Piaget Polo G0A45005
What is it? Another steel sporting watch, like Patek’s ‘Nautilus’ above. Fitted with Piaget’s 1110P self-winding mechanical movement, this almost-turquoise timepiece will be limited to just 888 pieces.
Why is it green? Because the colour, according to Piaget, “infuses the dynamism of rich green to an iconic collection” — and “brings a modern touch to a vintage-inspired design”. No arguments here.
How does it stand out? By employing an almost-green. Unlike Patek’s olive, or Breitling’s racing green, there’s something a little divisive and daring about this Piaget’s colour. They’re trend-setters; not trend-followers.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K
What is it? A sumptuous 18-carat gold spin on Tudor’s reliable Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Thankfully, the ticking heart of the timepiece is the same; the self-winding mechanical Calibre MT5400 with bidirectional rotor system.
Why is it green? That’s ‘golden green’, we’ll have you know. And Tudor decided on this retro-inspired colour because it believed the gold-and-green combination emphasises the elegance of the vintage-tinged timepiece.
How does it stand out? Unlike the other watches on this list, not because of its dial. Instead, it’s that gold case. Unlike most typically bright gold watches, Tudor has entirely satin-finished this Black Bay for a modish matt effect.
Want more recent watches? Here are 10 of the most exciting releases and reveals from Watches & Wonders 2021…
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