Words: Jonathan Wells
In recent years, the world of watchmaking has become increasingly dazzled by exotic elements and alloys; a ruthenium-coated dial here, a palladium-plated bracelet there. But no metal, try as it might, will ever possess the hold of gold. For over 6,000 years, its glint and glimmer has captivated collectors and prospectors alike. And, as another year ticks by, yet more manufactures d’horlogerie are reaffirming their fondness for the sought-after stuff.
Some watchmakers invest heavily; laying it all on the gilded line. Others simply take the high-shine shade and apply it to more affordable materials. But, whether you invest in the very best timepiece, or go for a more modest option, there’ll never be anything quite so good as gold. Here are eight of the best…
Rolex Day-Date 40
Rolex, naturally, has spared no expense with its Day-Date 40 — pouring a champagne-coloured dial into a fluted 18-karat bezel. On a ‘President’ bracelet, it’s a sumptuous spin on an already-iconic watch; fitted with a ‘Cyclops’ magnifying lens, Calibre 3255 movement and a day display that changes instantaneously at midnight.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin “50th Anniversary”
Audemars Piguet’s ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oak uses gold of the same high-polished purity as the Rolex above, toasting half a century of its sparkling sub-brand with a 39mm ‘50th Anniversary’ edition. We particularly like the smoked yellow-gold-toned ‘Petite Tapisserie’ dial on this one — hiding the house’s latest selfwinding movement, Calibre 7121, beneath.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
Also venturing back to the 1970s, Vacheron Constantin has delivered a decadently designed reissue of its Historiques 222, with a white gold ‘Maltese’ cross on the case. Featuring a monobloc tonneau-shaped case topped with a grooved bezel, this timepiece has an integrated strap that stays true to the marque’s sporty spirit.
Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Gold
Other brands have played around with their use of the precious metal. Bell & Ross, for example, has added some blush to this bunch by realising its skeletonised BR 05 model in 18-karat rose gold (and using the pinkish alloy to fashion everything from the gilded appliqué indices to the minutes hand). Water-resistant to 100 metres, those hands are drenched in ultra-legible Super-LumiNova.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze
Tudor, whose burnished Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze isn’t actually made from the metal, has a satin-brushed case to evoke gold’s glamour. And, with the Swiss watchmaker’s COSC-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5400 ticking away inside that case — offering a power reserve of more than 70 hours — it more than earns its place on this lustrous list.
Rado New Original Automatic
And then there are the more affordable options; timepieces simply trimmed in golden tones. These include Rado’s new hardmetal DiaStar, fitted with a smart titanium strap. It’s a reinterpretation of the iconic ‘Original’ model from 1962, fitted with a powerful new automatic movement to match its stand-out good looks.
Tissot PRX
The freshly-minted Tissot PRX is created with a coating so state-of-the-art than even a scratch won’t uncover the stainless steel beneath. The least expensive of our golden picks, it still features impressive water-resistance, Super-LumiNova on the hands and dial — and an interchangeable strap system if you’re looking to shake things up.
Hamilton American Classic PSR Digital Quartz
Finally, we’ve let Hamilton’s iconic PSR in on the aureate action — despite this limited edition selling out almost instantly. It’s still worth seeking out second-hand, though, given its vintage-tinged, oddly-futuristic design and attention-grabbing hybrid display.
Want more watches? These are the six best winter watches from Grand Seiko — and where to wear them…
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