Words: Archie Rutland
What is it about dive watches in particular that make them so attention grabbing? Well, they are by no means subtle. Built to withstand far more pressure than they will ever experience, these large format chunks of precious metal and sapphire glass represent the astonishing horological and engineering prowess of Switzerland’s finest watchmakers.
During the 50s, when international tourism and air travel started to take off, diving emerged as the ultimate hobby accessible to wealthy adventurers looking to push the boundaries of human exploration. A tool was needed to estimate air consumption and calculate decompression stops during dives to stay safe. Water resistance at depth, the ability to accurately track time despite magnetic interference and legibility in murky conditions were complicated problems that watchmakers needed to overcome. Blancpain and Rolex had been early players in this arena, having already risen to the challenge and developed prototypes for the military during the war. Both companies released their first official dive watches in 1953, ushering in a new era of chronometric design.
While being a recreational scuba diver may not exude the same level of audacity and prestige as it once did, dive watches certainly haven’t lost their allure. Interestingly, some brands have now associated their watches more with freediving, despite the fact they do not offer much to a sport that is predominantly about depth and distance, and less so about time. However, this merging of worlds helps to maintain the notion of daredevilry. If you are thinking of investing in a dive watch, it may be because you want to give off the impression you are adventurous, even though you will probably find it gets in the way of most adventurous activities. Or maybe it’s because you simply marvel at the incredible durability of such a delicate and finely tuned mechanism, seamlessly counting hours and minutes on your wrist as time passes by. Either way, this extension of our anatomy is less about telling time and more about complementing our personalities and outfits. Here are our favourite dive watches for 2024.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5010
Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5010-12B40-O64, £17,100.
Widely accepted as the original diver’s watch, the Fifty Fathoms was developed in the early 50s for elite French naval divers, the “Nageurs de Combat”. Then capable of water resistance up to 300 feet, hence the name, the watch garnered its reputation as the primary choice of military divers and professional adventurers around the world. Blancpain’s latest iteration will do 300 metres and has a whopping 5-day power reserve. Supporting marine scientists and photographers, including Laurent Ballesta, Blancpain’s Ocean Commitment is helping raise awareness for the challenges facing our seas.
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810
You really need to have done something impressive to be worthy of wearing this one. Dressed in glacial patterns using the signature gratté-boisé technique, the Iced Sea dedicates itself to uninhabitable environments. Devoid of any oxygen so that internal corrosion and fogging are near impossible, mountain peaks and ocean depths are where this watch belongs. 4810 is the height of Mont Blanc in metres, and the depth to which it can safely go. Freediver and deepest human, William Trubridge, who has swum completely unaided down to 334 feet, has partnered with Montblanc for the launch of this astonishing watch.
Tudor Black Bay
Tudor Black Bay M7941A1A0NU-0003, £3,910.
Tudor Black Bay M7941A1A0NU-0003, £3,910.
Founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the creator of Rolex, Tudor was conceived to offer understated and highly durable watches at more affordable prices. The “Born To Dare” ethos, introduced in 2017, is reflected in the Black Bay’s robust and adventure friendly composition. Characteristics of former models such as the hallmark “snowflake” hour hand and shoulderless crown, maintain the watch’s heritage, while the “T-fit” clasp and Master Chronometer certification showcase its modern aesthetic and impressive quality.
Omega Seamaster
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m, from £5,300.
Omega seems to be as much a PR company as it is a watchmaker. Horologists for the Olympics, James Bond and even the 1969 lunar landing, you would struggle to find a better-known watch brand. The Ultra Deep made history in 2019 when it accompanied Victor Vescovo to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, setting a new world record at almost 11 kilometres beneath the surface, inside a submersible. The Duke of Cambridge was seen wearing his Diver 300m at the King’s coronation, given to him by his late mother Princess Diana.
Breitling Superocean
Breitling Superocean Automatic 42, £4,300.
Breitling Superocean Automatic 42, £4,300.
Breitling has opted for a more laid back and colourful approach to its latest redesign of the Superocean. No longer strictly a dive watch, the new collection introduces a limited-edition collaboration with champion surfer Kelly Slater. As the name suggests, the Superocean is as much intended for use above water, as it is below. The addition of its previously omitted second hand is a telling sign of this. Partnering with an All-Star team of champion surfers including Slater, Stephanie Gilmore and Sally Fitzgibbons, the brand says, “The new Superocean perfectly balances the nostalgia of its heritage while making fresh new waves”.
Longines Legend Diver
Longines Legend Diver L3.764.4.50.0, £2,950.
Noticeably different from the rest, Longines has stuck to its super compressor design giving a more refined appearance to the Legend Diver. The internal rotating bezel and two crowns are typical features of this method of water resistance that increases with pressure. The 39 millimetre diameter case, contrasting lume and lack of date window are the main crowd pleasing improvements on old models. And the price tag is pleasantly palatable at a smidge over three grand.
For more from the world of watches, discover our favourite timepieces under £5,000...
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