Berners Tavern restaurant review
Words: Charlie Thomas
Berners Tavern is a unique venue. Situated within the achingly cool London Edition, it’s a hotel restaurant with a difference. As versatile as its namesake, Jason Atherton, it’s open for breakfast and lunch, but you’ll want to come for dinner.
THE ATMOSPHERE, One of the more impressive dining rooms in London, Berners Tavern is reminiscent of the stately home of a British aristocrat, yet it’s about as far from old fashioned or staid as you could possibly imagine. Numerous paintings line the walls, forming a mosaic of art that wouldn’t be out of place in a Harry Potter film. Despite the sheer size of the room (it’s ceilings are remarkably tall), it somehow remains cosy and romantic, making it perfect for couples.
THE FOOD, With a menu of distinctly British food, Berners Tavern could have fallen into a trap its thunderous decor managed to avoid. Just like its surroundings, the food is rooted in heritage yet infused with modern touches such as Highland venison combined with cocoa and juniper, and Romney Marsh lamb with white bean ragout and pesto. For the carnivores, the steaks are unmissable and starting at £19, not too unreasonable either. If you can stretch to dessert (which might be a challenge considering the healthy portions), then the dark chocolate tart is a devilish treat. For those who prefer not to be consumed completely by cocoa though, the apple caramel eclair is an interesting twist on a classic.
THE DRINK, As an aperitif, BT’s seasonal cocktails are a must. Skip the Champagne and go for a Dil or No Dil – a wonderfully refreshing gin-based number. Moving on to wine, and the tome-like list will please even the most seasoned aficionado. For the more daring, the skilled sommelier can pair a glass to each dish, although this turns out not to be a risk at all since she’s spot on with her choices. Glasses start from £8, and bottles from £30 however, so choose wisely.
THE DAMAGE, Drink-wise, alcoholic cocktails cost £13.50 and glasses of wine start at £8. Starters cost from £9.50, mains from £14.50 and desserts £8.50. A three-course meal for two with a glass of wine costs £100 on average.
THE CONCLUSION, Berners Tavern manages the difficult task of offering high-end food in an environment entirely devoid of stuffiness, despite the shock and awe of its glamorous surroundings. The food is original and the decor beautiful. What’s not to love?
BEST FOR, Berners Tavern is one of the more romantic restaurants in London, making it perfect for couples. It’s also popular with suits over lunch, although the relatively high price of the food and the awe-factor of the dining room means that it’s ideal for special occasions.
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