Balls & Co: elegant simplicity
It’s said that Google’s success is down to its focus on doing one thing well, while its competitors flounder as they aim to stuff themselves with additional functions and lose the trust of their users. Could this be the reason London is going through a one-plate-restaurant revolution? Do we wish to shun the complexity of choice which leads to food envy and remorse over our orders? Or maybe we just all love dirty burgers, hot dogs with champagne and gourmet porridge. Whatever the reason, we’re sceptical of its longevity. But when places like the new meatball-themed restaurant Balls and Company appear we are forced to reconsider.
THE CUISINE
The ultra-focused menu of this Soho eatery comes courtesy of Australian MasterChef finalist, Bonny Porter. There are five varieties of the rotund protein parcels: wagyu beef, pork, chicken, salmon and quinoa. Then choose between four sauces, from romesco to béchamel, to top your dishes and that’s it. The simplicity of it all has a certain elegance about it.
THE VIBE
From its subtle all-black exterior and minimal signage to its positioning in the edgy restaurant hotbed of Greek Street, the refined Balls and Company is much more than just another box to tick off your foodie-fad bingo card. On our visit, the team were celebrating the opening of their new cocktail joint, Company Below, in the basement. It’s our secret, and perfect to sneak off to. Dark, speakeasy vibes are hidden behind a big unmarked door that could easily lead to the kitchen or the loos… ask for directions to avoid embarrassment.
THE FOOD
The parsnip shavings served as a pre-dinner nibble are the dangerous combo of sweet and salty that encourages shovelling. The wagyu beef balls are served rare with the softness of butter, while the pork balls are filled with parmesan and pine nuts. The surprise hero is the salmon, for which we chose the rich green pesto as an accompaniment. They were juicy and dense whilst maintaining the natural flakiness of the fish. For diners who find themselves longing to marry the meatballs with their ancestral Italian soulmate, there are sides of spaghetti. However, we recommend you mop up any leftover sauce with a tower of giant fluffy polenta chips. For desert is a brownie of dense chocolate tar topped with ice cream and a mountain of woolly Persian fairy floss. Just don’t fall into a carb coma before you make the last tube home.
THE DRINKS
The cocktail list accompanying the new bar features some slightly left-field combinations (red wine and earl grey?) which are surprisingly palatable if not dangerously drinkable. For a stiff aperitif, the Mr Monkey blends whiskey, sweet vermouth, maraschino liqueur and chocolate bitters. On the other end of the scale, the Almond Sour is a beverage of ludicrous biscuitiness, like a drinkable dessert that’s filled with almond butter and bourbon.
THE DAMAGE
Very budget friendly. Go as a big party and you could order everything on the menu. Balls come in at £9 a plate, sides £5 and cocktails £7.50.
CONCLUSION
In the booming post-Burger & Lobster economy, the niche cuisine is king, for now at least. The real challenge is delineating the gourmet from gimmicky. Gimmicky is selling people bowls of cereal they can buy multiple boxes of for the same price. The execution at Balls & Company ensures its very much gourmet and proof that sometimes, less is more. Just leave the puns at the door, gents.
BEST FOR
Fun dinners with large groups. Casual dates with picky palettes.
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