Babylonstoren offers a lesson in cultivating longevity

Since its establishment in 1692, Babylonstoren has grown from the ground up. The Cape Dutch estate now comprises a garden, restored homestead at Soetmelksvlei, working farm, vineyard, conservation site and a renowned farm-to-fork restaurant. I’m clearly not alone in struggling to choose a favourite aspect. Even its owner, Karen Roos, admits, “Each person will give you a different answer, but everyone experiences something”.

For me, quite simply, it was waking up at Babylonstoren. I am not a lark by any means. I have never been part of the 5am club. But the golden sun rising over the Simonsberg mountains and illuminating the terracotta earth of Babylonstoren makes you bound out of bed.

The farm walk towards Signal Hill

Early morning is the perfect time to explore the extensive gardens and surrounding fruit orchards, which cultivate a wealth of citrus fruits, figs (in 12 different varieties, I should add), macadamia nuts, persimmons, prickly pears and almonds – to name but a few. As I walked in line behind a platoon of White Pekin ducks into the orchards, which exude the same nostalgic romanticism as that of a Beatrix Potter novel, a new day had dawned on the farm. These ducks, which act as a slug control measure, play a crucial role in preserving the biosphere of Babylonstoren.

Babel Restaurant

It is this biosphere that master gardener Gundula Deutschlander has lovingly cultivated. Her ethos – that which is invisible is the most important aspect of a garden – reigns true. Her ritualistic approach to gardening and a commitment to ensuring nothing goes to waste, even the chicken droppings, instills a profound sense of grounding in those who visit.

Ducks on their morning walk

And it is these rich, fertile soils (and the culinary mastery of Executive Chef Schalk Vlok) that are responsible for producing the bountiful flavours boasted by Babel Restaurant. Each dish honours the individual vegetable, meat or cheese around which it is centred. Heirloom Moestuin beetroots on a spread of garden herb aioli make the perfect accompaniment to Norman’s line fish of the day; chermoula yoghurt and Ian’s Afri-Blush apples. Mosbolletjie bread (a sweet brioche made with grape must during the annual wine harvest) is served with a fig butter, to prepare you for the culinary journey ahead. Even the salt and pepper – encased in large petri-dishes – pay homage to the clinical precision with which each dish is executed.

Greenhouse Restaurant

On the off-chance you wake up hungry following the previous night’s spread, a breakfast banquet awaits you. Served in the courtyard of the Old Cow Shed with its tasteful mix of Cape Dutch architecture and contemporary glass walls, it comes festooned with Elzé’s Heirloom tomatoes, water buffalo yoghurt, fresh honeycomb and a charcuterie and cheese selection that would stun any West London deli owner into silence.

Babylonstoren pool

Belly satisfied (again), there is a wealth of possibilities that lie ahead, whether it is rowing on the dam or relaxing in the tranquil bamboo spa. Perhaps you’ll take a sunset drive up the Simonsberg mountains where you’ll sip a glass of their famous white wine blend, aptly named ‘Candide’ after French Philosopher Voltaire, whose belief it was that one must “cultivate their own garden”. That’s exactly what Babylonstoren has done – and we are lucky enough to enjoy the fruits.

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