A gentleman’s guide to buying the perfect shirt
Words: Charlie Thomas
Buying the perfect shirt is not as easy as you might think. There are numerous factors to consider and simply turning up and selecting the first one you see is not a viable option. If you desire to look your best then you’ll want a cut that will flatter your body shape and a colour that won’t wash you out.
Emma Willis, founder of her eponymous Jermyn Street shirtmakers, suggests taking time over your decision. ‘Collar shape and construction, neat, small stitching and matched patterns at the seams and the quality of cotton, as well as real mother of pearl buttons, would be the most important things to look for in a man’s shirt’. If you’re stuck for where to turn then you’re in the right place. Here is our gentleman’s guide to buying the perfect shirt.
THE COLOUR, If you’re investing in your first ‘proper’ shirt, white is the only way. Similar to a navy suit and brown leather brogues, the classic white shirt is a gentleman’s essential and arguably the most versatile garment you can own. It can be worn with any and all of your suits and if purchased in a luxury cotton it will only get better the more you wear it. Alternatively, and for a slightly less formal look, pale blue is a great option. In terms of pattern however, less is definitely more so if you want to infuse a subtle dose of character, we’d recommend for a soft gingham, or vertical stripe.
THE MATERIAL, No respected shirtmakers will use any form of synthetic, man-made material. Instead, only the finest cotton is utilised and they’re generally made with two strands of thread rather than one for ultimate strength and a soft, flowing texture. There are a number of cotton fabrics available including pinpoint, sateen, end-on-end and the most used; poplin, which was originally conceived in the home of London’s shirtmaking industry, Jermyn Street.
THE FIT, It is a point we have laboured extensively, but the way the garment fits will make it or break it. Different brands will have their own house styles when it comes to made-to-measure. Generally you can expect to find a ‘classic fit’, which if from London, will be cut full across the chest, shoulders and arms. This is ideal for those looking for a traditional shirt that won’t restrict your movement. For something more contemporary however, shirtmakers tend to offer a more tailored fit, which typically features back darts. This means it will be cut more closely through the waist, accentuating an athletic silhouette, which is of course particularly desirable.
THE COLLAR, This is where things start to get fun. The details really make the difference when it comes to made-to-measure and bespoke, as you’ll have full reign over what is implemented. Steve Quin, Retail Director at Turnbull & Asser confirms, ‘the choice of collars and cuffs is infinite. The collar can be moved by an 1/8th of an inch, so it can be more spread or less spread – there really is 100s of collars to choose from’. Here are a few of your options:
Classic
Turnbull & Asser Classic White Shirt, £165 from T&A
Spread
, Emma Willis Ice Blue Shirt, £200 from Emma Willis
Button-down
, Brooks Brothers Button-Down Shirt, £115 from Mr Porter
Cutaway
Hilditch & Key Double Cuff Cutaway Shirt, £155 from Hilditch & Key
THE CUFF, Generally there are only two options here; the single button cuff and the double ‘French’ cuff. It really is down to personal preference – the buttoned cuff is less formal and the double cuff allows cufflinks to be utilised for a more traditional, dressy aesthetic. Of course, if you are going bespoke then there are a multitude of options. For example, Turnbull & Asser famously created the ‘cocktail’ cuff for Sean Connery in Dr No, featuring a two-button turn back construction.
Whatever you do decide to go for, make sure you buy the shirt for you. You can take all the advice in the world, but don’t make the mistake of purchasing a shirt just because you think other people will like it. It’s an investment at the end of the day, so opt for something you will love and want to wear day in, day out.
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